Brick siding is one of the most durable and attractive options for home exteriors. However, even this sturdy material faces wear and tear over time from weather, shifting soil, and general aging. Ignoring small cracks or loose mortar can lead to expensive water damage and structural issues later on.
Repairing brick siding is a manageable project if you have the right guidance and patience. To fix brick siding effectively, you must assess the severity of the damage, clean the area thoroughly to remove debris, apply high quality masonry caulk or mortar to fill cracks, and seal the surface to protect against future moisture intrusion.
Identifying Signs of Damage and Structural Issues
Before you pick up a hammer, you need to know exactly what you are dealing with. Not all cracks are the same. Some are merely cosmetic, while others warn of shifting foundations or serious water issues. Start by walking around your entire home.
Look for “stair step” cracks that follow the mortar lines. These often indicate normal settling but can suggest foundation problems if they are wider than a quarter inch. Check for spalling, which is when the face of the brick flakes off due to freeze thaw cycles.
“Water management is the single most important factor in the durability of brick masonry. Keeping water out of the wall system prevents most common damage types.”
Inspect the mortar joints closely. If the mortar is crumbling or missing entirely, this is called needing “repointing.” You should also look for signs of mildew or white powdery stains called efflorescence. These signs tell you that water is moving through the wall.
If you see a long horizontal crack or if the wall appears to bow outward, stop immediately. This is a sign of structural failure. In these cases, DIY repair is dangerous, and you must consult a structural engineer.
Essential Tools and Materials for Masonry Repair
Having the right tools makes the job safer and ensures a professional looking finish. You do not want to be running to the store in the middle of mixing mortar. Gather everything you need beforehand to keep your workflow smooth.
| Category | Items Needed | Purpose |
|---|---|---|
| Demolition | Cold chisel, club hammer, masonry saw | Removing damaged bricks and old mortar safely. |
| Application | Pointing trowel, hawk, mortar bag | Applying new mortar into joints cleanly. |
| Preparation | Wire brush, stiff bristle brush, hose | Cleaning the surface for better adhesion. |
| Safety | Safety glasses, heavy duty gloves, N95 mask | Protection from flying debris and silica dust. |
The type of mortar you choose matters significantly. For most residential brick siding, Type N mortar is the standard choice because it offers a good balance of strength and flexibility. If you use a mortar that is too hard, it can actually crack the softer bricks around it when the temperature changes.
Safety is critical when working with masonry. Cutting brick or grinding mortar creates silica dust, which is harmful to your lungs. Always wear a respirator when creating dust.
According to the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) standards on crystalline silica, breathing in dust from concrete and brick cutting can lead to serious respiratory diseases, so proper protection is non negotiable.
Step by Step Guide to Fixing Cracks
Small cracks in the brick face or the mortar can often be fixed without replacing the entire unit. The key is preparation. If the crack is dirty, the new repair material will just fall out in a few months.
Start by widening the crack slightly with a chisel or a 5-in-1 painter’s tool. This might sound counterintuitive, but you need to create a clean surface and enough space for the filler to grip. Use a wire brush to sweep away all loose crumbs and dust. Blowing compressed air into the crack helps ensure it is perfectly clean.
For hairline cracks, a high quality masonry caulk is your best friend. Choose a textured caulk that matches the color of your mortar or brick. Squeeze the caulk into the crack and smooth it over with a putty knife. You can even dab it with a dry brush to mimic the texture of the surrounding stone.
- Use silicone based sealants for dynamic cracks that might move slightly.
- Use acrylic latex caulk if you plan to paint over the repair later.
- Always check the temperature rating on the tube before applying in cold weather.
For wider cracks in the mortar joints, you will need to mix a small batch of fresh mortar. Wet the old mortar with a spray bottle first. This prevents the dry wall from sucking the moisture out of your new mix too quickly, which creates a weak bond.
Pack the mortar tightly into the gap using a pointing trowel. Once it begins to set but is still damp, tool the joint to match the shape of the existing mortar lines. This step is crucial for making the repair invisible.
Replacing Broken or Missing Bricks
Sometimes a brick is too damaged to save. Replacing a single brick is a more advanced task, but it restores the structural integrity of the siding. This process requires patience to avoid damaging the good bricks next to the bad one.
Drill a series of holes into the mortar surrounding the damaged brick using a masonry bit. This weakens the hold. Use your cold chisel and hammer to chip away the mortar, working carefully from the center of the brick outward. Once the mortar is gone, the brick should slide out or can be broken into pieces and removed.
Clean the empty cavity completely. Remove all traces of old mortar so the new brick will sit flush. It is helpful to bring a piece of the old brick to the masonry yard to find the closest possible color match. If you cannot find a perfect match, you might be able to steal a brick from an unseen area of your house, like behind a bush, and swap them.
Soak the new brick in water for a few minutes before installing it. A dry brick will absorb water from the mortar too fast, weakening the joint. Lay a bed of mortar on the bottom of the cavity. “Butter” the top and sides of the new brick with mortar.
Slide the new brick into the hole. You might need to tap it gently with the handle of your trowel to get it level with the wall. Pack more mortar into the gaps until they are full. Finish by tooling the joints to match the rest of the wall.
Sealing and Long Term Maintenance
Once your repairs are cured, you need to protect the wall to prevent the damage from returning. Water absorption is the main enemy of brick siding. When water gets into the pores and freezes, it expands and cracks the face of the brick.
Wait at least 28 days for new mortar to fully cure before applying any sealer. If you seal it too early, you trap moisture inside, which ruins the work. Choose a siloxane or silane based water repellent. These are “breathable” sealers.
Unlike paint or film forming sealers, breathable repellents stop liquid water from entering but allow water vapor to escape from inside the house. This prevents the bricks from rotting from the inside out.
Routine maintenance goes a long way. Keep soil and mulch at least six inches below the brick line to prevent rising damp. Trim ivy and climbing vines. While they look classic, their roots dig into the mortar and pull it apart over time.
For more detailed guidelines on maintaining brick exteriors, the Brick Industry Association provides technical notes on how weather and construction practices affect masonry longevity.
Conclusion
Taking on DIY brick siding repair is a rewarding way to maintain your home’s value and curb appeal. By catching problems early and using the right techniques, you can extend the life of your siding for decades. Remember to prioritize safety and take your time with the details. Your home will look better, and you will have the satisfaction of a job well done.
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Disclaimer: The information provided in this article is for educational purposes only. Masonry repair can involve structural components of a building. If you are unsure about the severity of damage or the stability of your walls, always consult a licensed structural engineer or professional mason.
